“Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima

This article explores the impact of the gastronomic boom on gentrification processes in Lima, Peru, during the last two decades. It is an ethnographic study conducted in 2012, 2014, and 2016 in the Santa Cruz housing development, which used to be a working-class neighborhood located in the Miraflore...

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Autor principal: Claux, Denise
Formato: Revistas
Lenguaje:Español
Publicado: Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales, Sede Ecuador 2024
Acceso en línea:https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041
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author Claux, Denise
author_facet Claux, Denise
author_sort Claux, Denise
collection Revista
description This article explores the impact of the gastronomic boom on gentrification processes in Lima, Peru, during the last two decades. It is an ethnographic study conducted in 2012, 2014, and 2016 in the Santa Cruz housing development, which used to be a working-class neighborhood located in the Miraflores district. The central focus is the analysis of the personal narratives of change and belonging of residents, workers, and visitors, supported by photographic practice. In particular, it is based on the experience of Carlos, a young actor who after living several years in London returns to Peru to start a business and, taking advantage of competitive prices in Santa Cruz, opens a gourmet bakery in the neighborhood. Using the notion of “cosmopolitan imagination,” we show the different ways in which Carlos recontextualizes his experience in London in the specificity of La Mar, negotiating the limits, meanings and values of the places, people, and cultural practices that arise from inhabiting this space of change. Ultimately, Carlos’s bakery becomes a meeting point for linking or negotiating different strategies and experiences of belonging to the area, materializing power dynamics that emerge inside and outside the business, thus shaping the commodification of Santa Cruz.
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spelling iconos-article-60412024-05-01T16:12:05Z “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima “Comiéndose” el barrio: gastronomía y cambio urbano en Santa Cruz, Lima “Comer” o bairro: gastronomia e mudança urbana em Santa Cruz, Lima Claux, Denise classe social alimentação gentrificação identidade Lima poder clase comida gentrificación identidad Lima poder class food gentrification identity Lima power relations This article explores the impact of the gastronomic boom on gentrification processes in Lima, Peru, during the last two decades. It is an ethnographic study conducted in 2012, 2014, and 2016 in the Santa Cruz housing development, which used to be a working-class neighborhood located in the Miraflores district. The central focus is the analysis of the personal narratives of change and belonging of residents, workers, and visitors, supported by photographic practice. In particular, it is based on the experience of Carlos, a young actor who after living several years in London returns to Peru to start a business and, taking advantage of competitive prices in Santa Cruz, opens a gourmet bakery in the neighborhood. Using the notion of “cosmopolitan imagination,” we show the different ways in which Carlos recontextualizes his experience in London in the specificity of La Mar, negotiating the limits, meanings and values of the places, people, and cultural practices that arise from inhabiting this space of change. Ultimately, Carlos’s bakery becomes a meeting point for linking or negotiating different strategies and experiences of belonging to the area, materializing power dynamics that emerge inside and outside the business, thus shaping the commodification of Santa Cruz. En el presente artículo se explora el impacto del auge gastronómico en los procesos de gentrificación en Lima, Perú, durante las últimas dos décadas. Se trata de una investigación etnográfica realizada en 2012, 2014 y 2016, en la urbanización de Santa Cruz, que solía ser un barrio obrero ubicado en el distrito Miraflores. El enfoque central es el análisis de las narrativas personales de cambio y pertenencia de las personas residentes, trabajadoras y visitantes de la zona, apoyado en la práctica fotográfica. Se basa en la experiencia de Carlos, un joven actor que después de vivir varios años en Londres regresa al Perú para emprender y tomando ventaja de los precios competitivos en Santa Cruz, abre una panadería gourmet en el barrio. Tomando la idea de “imaginación cosmopolita”, se muestran las distintas formas en las que Carlos recontextualiza su experiencia en Londres en la especificidad de La Mar, negociando los límites, significados y valores de los lugares, personas y prácticas culturales que surgen al habitar este espacio de cambio. Finalmente, la panadería de Carlos se transforma en un punto de encuentro para vincular o negociar distintas estrategias y experiencias de pertenencia a la zona, materializando dinámicas de poder que emergen dentro y fuera del negocio, marcando así la mercantilización de Santa Cruz. Este artigo explora o impacto do boom gastronômico nos processos de gentrificação em Lima, Peru, durante as últimas duas décadas. Trata-se de uma investigação etnográfica realizada em 2012, 2014 e 2016, na urbanização Santa Cruz, que era um setor popular localizado no bairro de Miraflores. O foco central é a análise das narrativas pessoais de mudança e pertencimento dos moradores, trabalhadores e visitantes da área, apoiadas na prática fotográfica. Baseia-se na experiência de Carlos, um jovem ator que, depois de viver vários anos em Londres, regressa ao Peru para abrir um negócio e, aproveitando os preços competitivos de Santa Cruz, abre uma padaria gourmet no bairro. Tomando a ideia de “imaginação cosmopolita”, mostramos as diferentes formas como Carlos recontextualiza a sua experiência em Londres na especificidade de La Mar, negociando os limites, significados e valores dos lugares, pessoas e práticas culturais que surgem ao habitar este espaço de mudança. Por fim, a padaria do Carlos torna-se um ponto de encontro para vincular ou negociar diferentes estratégias e experiências de pertencimento ao território, materializando dinâmicas de poder que emergem dentro e fora do negócio, marcando assim a comercialização de Santa Cruz. Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales, Sede Ecuador 2024-05-01 info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artículo evaluado por pares application/pdf text/html text/xml application/epub+zip audio/mpeg https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041 10.17141/iconos.79.2024.6041 Íconos - Revista de Ciencias Sociales; Núm. 79 (2024): Alimentación y gentrificación: aproximaciones desde América Latina; 37-58 Íconos - Revista de Ciencias Sociales; n. 79 (2024): Alimentação e gentrificação: abordagens desde a América Latina; 37-58 Íconos. Revista de Ciencias Sociales; No. 79 (2024): Food and gentrification: Observations from Latin America; 37-58 1390-8065 1390-1249 spa https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041/4568 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041/4581 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041/4582 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041/4604 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041/4615 Derechos de autor 2024 Denise Claux https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0
spellingShingle Claux, Denise
“Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title_full “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title_fullStr “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title_full_unstemmed “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title_short “Eating the Barrio”: Gastronomy and urban change in Santa Cruz, Lima
title_sort “eating the barrio”: gastronomy and urban change in santa cruz, lima
url https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6041