Biblioteca Digital de VanguardiaGourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside
This article contributes to developing and consolidating research on the connections between food and gentrification while highlighting the effects of these processes in areas beyond urban life. To achieve this, we draw on the concept of value chains connecting gentrified neighborhoods to rural agri...
| Autores principales: | , , , , , , |
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| Formato: | Revistas |
| Lenguaje: | Español |
| Publicado: |
Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales, Sede Ecuador
2024
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| Acceso en línea: | https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025 |
| _version_ | 1802410731981766656 |
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| author | Di Virgilio, María Mercedes Frisch, María Agustina González, Sara Grenoville, Sebastián Hernández, Candela Nussbaumer, Beatriz Vega-Barbero, José Manuel |
| author_facet | Di Virgilio, María Mercedes Frisch, María Agustina González, Sara Grenoville, Sebastián Hernández, Candela Nussbaumer, Beatriz Vega-Barbero, José Manuel |
| author_sort | Di Virgilio, María Mercedes |
| collection | Revista |
| description | This article contributes to developing and consolidating research on the connections between food and gentrification while highlighting the effects of these processes in areas beyond urban life. To achieve this, we draw on the concept of value chains connecting gentrified neighborhoods to rural agricultural communities. In this chain, processes of valorization and devaluation are generated, which unevenly affect the actors involved in the production and consumption of food. The paper focuses on the conflicts and contestations along the value chain of gentrification, putting interdisciplinary contributions into dialogue while presenting four cases from secondary sources. These cases are illustrative of how these processes operate at different levels, territories, and scales: signature coffee, as a symbol of distinction in gentrified neighborhoods; the avocado from its gastronomic manifestation as avocado toast; wine, from the touristification of its production to valorization strategies in urban consumption; and quinoa, from the patenting of new varieties to the development of markets that exclude large sectors of the population. The boom in the circulation of these foods has the effect of capital accumulation by dispossession in both rural and urban areas and in both production and consumption processes. |
| format | Revistas |
| id | iconos-article-6025 |
| institution | Íconos - Revista de Ciencias Sociales |
| language | Español |
| publishDate | 2024 |
| publisher | Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales, Sede Ecuador |
| record_format | ojs |
| spelling | iconos-article-60252024-05-01T16:12:05Z Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside Gourmetización y gentrificación: paisajes alimentarios desde la ciudad hasta el campo Gourmetização e gentrificação: paisagens gastronómicas da cidade ao campo Di Virgilio, María Mercedes Frisch, María Agustina González, Sara Grenoville, Sebastián Hernández, Candela Nussbaumer, Beatriz Vega-Barbero, José Manuel cadena de valor espacios urbanos y rurales gentrificación alimentaria gourmetización paisajes alimentarios procesos de distinción cadeia de valor espaços urbanos e rurais gentrificação alimentar gourmetização paisagens alimentares processos de distinção value chain urban and rural spaces foodification gourmetization food landscapes processes of social distinction This article contributes to developing and consolidating research on the connections between food and gentrification while highlighting the effects of these processes in areas beyond urban life. To achieve this, we draw on the concept of value chains connecting gentrified neighborhoods to rural agricultural communities. In this chain, processes of valorization and devaluation are generated, which unevenly affect the actors involved in the production and consumption of food. The paper focuses on the conflicts and contestations along the value chain of gentrification, putting interdisciplinary contributions into dialogue while presenting four cases from secondary sources. These cases are illustrative of how these processes operate at different levels, territories, and scales: signature coffee, as a symbol of distinction in gentrified neighborhoods; the avocado from its gastronomic manifestation as avocado toast; wine, from the touristification of its production to valorization strategies in urban consumption; and quinoa, from the patenting of new varieties to the development of markets that exclude large sectors of the population. The boom in the circulation of these foods has the effect of capital accumulation by dispossession in both rural and urban areas and in both production and consumption processes. El presente artículo busca contribuir al desarrollo y consolidación de los estudios sobre la gourmetización y la gentrificación alimentaria, enfatizando los efectos que estos procesos tienen en ámbitos que exceden a la vida urbana. En ese marco, se propone recuperar los engranajes de la cadena de valor y sus localizaciones –desde los barrios gentrificados hasta las comunidades rurales agrícolas–, indicando los procesos de valorización y desvalorización y cómo estos afectan de forma desigual a los actores involucrados. Se enfatiza sobre este punto, estableciendo un diálogo interdisciplinar. A partir de una revisión bibliográfica, el artículo se basa en cuatro casos que se recuperan de fuentes secundarias y que ilustran la forma en la que operan estos procesos en distintos niveles, territorios y escalas: el café de autor en cuanto símbolo de distinción en los barrios gentrificados; la palta o aguacate a partir de su manifestación gastronómica en el avocado toast; el vino, desde la turistificación de su producción hasta las estrategias de valorización en su consumo urbano; y la quinoa desde el patentamiento de nuevas variedades hasta el desarrollo de mercados expulsivos de amplios sectores de población. Se concluye que el auge de estos alimentos tiene efectos de acumulación del capital por desposesión en los ámbitos rural y urbano al igual que en los procesos de producción y de consumo. Este artigo busca contribuir para o desenvolvimento e consolidação de estudos sobre a gourmetização e a gentrificação alimentar, enfatizando os efeitos que esses processos provocam em áreas que ultrapassam a vida urbana. Neste contexto, propõe-se recuperar as engrenagens da cadeia de valor e as suas localizações – dos bairros gentrificados às comunidades agrícolas rurais, indicando os processos de valorização e desvalorização e como estes afetam de forma desigual os atores envolvidos. Esse ponto é enfatizado, estabelecendo-se um diálogo interdisciplinar. A partir de uma revisão bibliográfica, o artigo baseia-se em quatro casos recuperados de fontes secundárias e que ilustram a forma como estes processos operam em diferentes níveis, territórios e escalas: o café gourmet, como símbolo de distinção nos bairros gentrificados; o abacate, pela sua manifestação gastronómica no avocado toast; o vinho, desde a turistificação da sua produção até às estratégias de valorização no seu consumo urbano; e a quinoa, desde o patenteamento de novas variedades até o desenvolvimento de mercados expulsivos para grandes setores da população. Conclui-se que a ascensão desses alimentos tem efeitos de acumulação de capital devido a desapropriação nas áreas rurais e urbanas, bem como nos processos de produção e consumo. Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales, Sede Ecuador 2024-05-01 info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion Artículo evaluado por pares application/pdf text/html text/xml application/epub+zip audio/mpeg https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025 10.17141/iconos.79.2024.6025 Íconos - Revista de Ciencias Sociales; Núm. 79 (2024): Alimentación y gentrificación: aproximaciones desde América Latina; 15-35 Íconos - Revista de Ciencias Sociales; n. 79 (2024): Alimentação e gentrificação: abordagens desde a América Latina; 15-35 Íconos. Revista de Ciencias Sociales; No. 79 (2024): Food and gentrification: Observations from Latin America; 15-35 1390-8065 1390-1249 spa https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025/4567 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025/4579 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025/4580 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025/4603 https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025/4614 Derechos de autor 2024 María Mercedes Di Virgilio, María Agustina Frisch, Sara González, Sebastián Grenoville, Candela Hernández, Beatriz Nussbaumer, José Manuel Vega-Barbero https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0 |
| spellingShingle | Di Virgilio, María Mercedes Frisch, María Agustina González, Sara Grenoville, Sebastián Hernández, Candela Nussbaumer, Beatriz Vega-Barbero, José Manuel Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title | Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title_full | Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title_fullStr | Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title_full_unstemmed | Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title_short | Gourmetization and gentrification: Food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| title_sort | gourmetization and gentrification: food landscapes from the city to the countryside |
| url | https://iconos.flacsoandes.edu.ec/index.php/iconos/article/view/6025 |